Ilokano ka gayam!

Makaawat ak ti Ilokano, Makasarita ak ngem basit laeng.

And the usual reply would be,

Ukinnam! Ilokano ka gayam!

I've always liked travelling in the mountains of Cordillera because aside from the spectacular views, I am given the opportunity to practice speaking in Ilokano. I've discovered that people there warm up to me when they hear me speak the language. It's that or my accent is really bad which is why they laugh a few seconds after I say my opening lines. 

I grew up hearing my parents, my relatives and even the family's household help speak Ilokano so my ears were involuntarily trained to understand the language. My lola from my mother's side of the family particularly loves to speak in Ilokano especially when sharing stories during family gatherings. It's safe to assume my vast knowledge of Ilokano expletives came from her.

Taken by my friend, Ben

A couple of weeks ago, during our visit to a village in the Mt. Province, I met an old man who introduced himself as manong David. He was lounging under a tree when I approached him. I said: 

Kumusta manong? then he just smiled at me. 

He replied saying a few words in a language which sounded like a mix of Kankaney and Ilokano. That's when shifted. I noticed the skies were overcast so I asked:

Kanayon nga agtud-tudo idtoy? He replied saying, "Wen. Maymayat koma tatnu masibugan ti pagay. Ilokano ka gayam, sabali gamin ti rupam" I could tell he was more interested this time. 

So I asked again, "Kaano kayo nga ag ani ti pagay, manong?" He replied, "Nabayag pay. Narigrigaten tatta, dagiti ubing, haan da kayat ti agtalon ti pagay".

I fell silent for a while because I didn't know what to say to him. I also ran out of Ilokano words to say already so I just sat there and stared into the distance. Then the rain started pouring heavily. He invited my friends, who came looking for me, and I into his house, "Umay tayo pay lang iti uneg ti balay ko"

There were seven of us gathered in the first floor of his house including three of my friends and two of his grandchildren. We waited for the rain to stop. I played rock, paper, and scissors with his grandchildren to kill time. Manong David sat there comfortably watching us play the game. 

Taken by Janus, Mang David's grandson, using my camera

The rain stopped after around 20 minutes. I told him we had to leave, "Manong, salamat. mapan kamin." Then he said with a smile, "Syak met, ag ili ak pay. Agsubli kayo"

These portraits

I find it difficult taking portraits of people. I blame it on my inability to quickly establish connections with them.

I was a shy kid growing up. I learned early on that I was not blessed with much talent. The kind of talent that I could easily show when asked spontaneously. It was an insecurity that bothered me when I was young. In a family of very talented singers, I often was a quiet spectator during gatherings and reunions. 

It's something that I've learned to cope with over the years. I did eventually discover my own unique skills and capabilities but the experience I had growing up still affected the way I approach people. More specifically, I often have a difficult time keeping conversations engaging. I find it hard especially when I'm not able to draw out similarities with the person I'm talking with. 

And so most of the portraits I take are of people very close to me. There's the familiarity that gives me the courage to point the camera at them. An exercise which often brings about a certain feeling of uneasiness in most people and eliminates immediately any the element of candidness in any situation. 

I also tend to be less deliberate in my approach. I'm not that type of photographer who is very good at directing people. I usually start a conversation with them to distract their attention from the camera. It's very easy at this point since I've known these people for years. When the opportune moment comes, the split second smile or that peaceful and serene look, I quickly take the photograph and hope for the best.

Below are two recent portraits of my grandmothers from both sides of our family. These are not my best. It's an ongoing learning process for me and something I wish to improve on. I'm happy to say however that slowly I've been able to build my confidence. 

I need to practice writing for an upcoming test :)

Surigao Series Part 1: Surigao Del Sur

 
It was a rather dull and boring evening and I was lazily sifting through Facebook posts when I saw something that caught my attention. It was a of photo a river in some obscure town in Mindanao called Hinatuan. The photo went viral and has accumulated enough likes, maybe a thousand or more, to reach my news feed and catch my curiosity as an avid traveler. I couldn't believe my eyes then. I was sure something of that level would have been surely post-processed to achieve the effect if there ever was any intention to do so. The comments seem to echo my sentiments also. The waters were clear and blue that it seemed like it was man-made. It was certainly inviting. I kept that image in my mind and soon enough I was booked on a trip to visit the Enchanted river of Surigao to see for myself.

Part I:
  
We took the morning flight to Butuan city and arrived as early as 7:30AM. Information on different websites I read suggested that there are vans that go directly from the airport to Bislig city. However, upon arrival we learned that the vans are chartered for a minimum fee which at the time we could not afford. They advised us to look for public vans at the bus terminal. Unfortunately when we arrived at bus terminal, the bus and vans bound for Bislig city already left so we instead took a public van bound for San Francisco, Agusan del Sur which is few towns away from Hinatuan. From San Francisco bus terminal we transferred to a public jeep bound for Hinatuan.

The trip took approximately 4 hours through wide and well paved roads passing through fields filled with coconut trees. Cars plying the same route were few and far in between with only the common and widely used habal-habal motorcycles transporting vegetable produce frequently catching our sights.  We had asked to be dropped off at the junction separating the main road and the dirt road leading to the Enchanted river. There we chartered a habal-habal to take us to the river. Our driver offered us a package which includes a visit to Tinuy-An falls for P1,500.00 for three people. The rate was standard for the tour.

The habal-habal ride took about 30 minutes through tortuous unpaved roads which was an experience in itself until a sign in the middle of the forest indicated we were there already. There were a lot of people during our visit with many of them occupying the picnic tents surrounding the river. We didn't mind them as we walked immediately straight towards the river and as it unfolded in front of us we all gasped in awe.

It was real and it was even better up close. We stared at it for a little while longer and then we put down our bags, removed our clothes, and motioned towards the river to finally swim. The water was cold but bearable. We were told that the water was coming from the nearby sea and flowed through an underground cave which no one has yet explored. The deepest part easily reached 25 meters and while swimming we could see schools of fish swimming from underneath our feet.

Local folklore has it that the river was inhabited by mystical elements and beings. Some unexplainable events have been reported to have happened ever since the place was opened to the public. Nevertheless the supernatural and eerie reputation of the place has only allured more and more locals to flock to the place.

After the river, we packed our bags and went on to Bislig city. It was another one and a half hour journey with the last 30 minutes riding again through unpaved roads leading up to Tinuy-An falls. We arrived late in the afternoon just before sunset and we knew we were already close when we we heard the sound of rushing water.

From afar we could already see the bottom tier of the waterfalls and it was magnificent. The air was filled with mist and the sun was just at the right place to light up the scene. For a minimal fee we rented a bamboo raft to be able to get closer to the foot of the falls. The catch basin is 30 feet deep and the under current was not that strong at the time so it was safe to swim. The highlight of the experience was standing exactly below the falling water as it acted like natural shower.

We had to make in time for the last bus to Butuan city so we left after an hour. We were exhausted but by the end of our first day we all agreed that it was well worth the travel and effort. Our habal-habal cruised through the countryside with little difficulty and we relaxed as the rushing wind dried our drenched clothes and we watched as the sun wearily and slowly put an end to our first day of adventure. We boarded the bus and quickly dozed off as soon as it left Bislig city.

Travel Notes:

Map of Surigao for reference

-The hardest part of the trip definitely was the planning as I learned of other attractions which piqued my interest such as the Tinuy-An falls in Bislig, the Sohoton islands in Socorro and Siargao island which are situated in southern and northern parts of Surigao, respectively. I realized we would have to do a circuit passing through most of the towns in Surigao to visit them all. I eventually decided that the most efficient way for us is to go south first and explore the mainland and work my way up until we reach Siargao Island.

-There are multiple entry points to get into the province from Manila either through Surigao City, Davao City, Tandag City or Butuan City. The flights are operated by PAL and Cebu Pacific Air. Following my rough itinerary we chose to fly in through Butuan City as it was the closest entry point to reach the southern part of the province.

-The Enchanted river is located in Hinatuan, Surigao del Sur and Tinuy-An falls is in Bislig City. We took the morning flight to have enough time to visit both attractions within the day. I have read that normally there are vans located in the airport that would offer to take tourists straight to Bislig City but the vans are hired on a chartered basis and price would be economical only for large groups. We were quoted P3,500.00 for a van that could fit 10 people.

-Alternatively there are buses and vans at the integrated bus terminal that ply the route going to Bislig City.  The vans take 4 hours while the buses take 5-6 hours to reach Bislig City.  They pass through major cities of Agusan such as Bayugan, Properidad, and San Francisco before crossing over to Surigao del Sur through Tagbina and Hinatuan.

-At the junction before entering Hinatuan town proper, several habal-habal drivers will be available for hire. Standard rate is P1,500.00 for a tour that will include a visit to the Enchanted River, Britania group of islands jump-off point and Tinuy-An falls exclusive of entrance fees. Our habal-habal driver was Tata (09078926375). You can contact him prior to your trip to arrange the tour and he will be waiting for you at the junction

-For overnight stays, Paper Country Inn (086-628-2313) came in highly recommended. We however chose to do a day trip at the last minute due to time constraints. I had to cancel our reservation.

-Last trip leaving Bislig city to Butuan city is at 5:30 PM.

My Brief Time in Hanoi

  
I've been wanting to go to this place ever since I started traveling around Southeast Asia. I've read about it in countless blogs and on the infamous tripadvisor and I knew I had to visit someday. I set my sights on the northern and central part of the country and initially wanted to go to either Sapa, Hoi An or Hue but the lack of available flights and the weird flight schedules (CebuPac flies only on Tuesdays and Thursdays) made me pass up on the opportunity a number of times. But I never stopped talking about it and sharing it to my closest friends that I wanted to visit Hanoi. Then one day my girlfriend gave me one of the most special gifts I received so far in my life such that the overwhelming feeling took me back to a time when I still looked forward to opening gifts under an illuminated tree and believed it came from a jolly old cheerful white-bearded man.

Anyway, Hanoi did not disappoint. It was a city which had a balance of everything I wanted in one place. Rich culture, cheap but amazing food and most of all, interesting and friendly people. 

The structures have been well preserved owing to the city's willingness to adapt and reuse old buildings. The french quarter with wide and spacious roads and charming occupation era architecture contrasted with the narrow alleys of the old quarter; every nook and cranny pulsating with life. It's like walking around the well paved roads of Intramuros and Escolta then eventually finding your way to the convoluted streets of Binondo.

I particularly liked visiting the Ho Chi Minh complex and staying there in the square in front of the mausoleum. The vastness of the place is just refreshing to the eyes especially when they are trained on a single structure at the center of it all. It just exudes reverence and respect. A fitting and proper memorial for a national icon. It's as if  just by looking at it I am already inspired to do magnificent things.

Kien and Edward from Hanoikids toured us around the political complex and while most the affluent and luxurious colonial buildings were preserved, it was pointed out to us that Ho Chi Minh led a very simple an humble life. He never resided in those palaces but instead preferred simple living quarters where he had a single bed, a dining room, and a study with a radio and portraits of Lenin and Marx. He would relax by the pond outside his house and feed the fishes. He had an interesting way of summoning them, he would clap three times and the fish would come out of the water. We also visited the museum but to somehow get a crash course on the history of Vietnam and Ho Chi Minh but the information was just too much for me to retain.

After the tour we rested for a while then watched the Thang Long Water Puppet theater. It was a great show but it was unfortunate that my camera battery died by the time the show started.



The next morning we walked a couple of hundred meters to visit the Tran Quoc Pagoda. We took a few pictures outside before proceeding to our next tour. We weren't allowed inside since I was wearing a pair of shorts. While there are remaining temples in the city, we were told that most of the population are free thinkers.

In the afternoon we toured around the Temple of Literature and the French Quarter with Trang and Tai of Hanoikids. The Temple of Literature is the oldest university in Hanoi. Nowadays it has been converted in a museum. The Temple looks like a park lush with greenery and flowers. The presence of centuries-old structures added a meditative and relaxing mood. 

After the visit to the Temple, we went straight to the French Quarter. This part of the tour escaped me as I was busy talking with our tour guide. Tai is currently a student and aspiring to be in the banking industry when he graduates so he was interested in how banking works in my country. We made a stop by the Hanoi Opera House to rest then continued walking on until we reached the Old Quarter. The French Quarter was a typical affluent neighborhood surrounded by five-star hotels and boutique shops for luxury brands, nothing of which piqued my interest. 

As the day ended we just stayed by the beer corner and ate some snacks and I myself had a few drinks. We shared about our country as well and we were much surprised to know that we had a lot of things in common. We were cautious at first because they had a very different political system compared to ours but somehow being with them felt like we were never in a foreign place. Maybe it's because we shared the same love for street food or because most of the places we were shown or we were told about resembled something we have in our country as well. Or maybe because they were about the same age as we were and we instantly felt an affinity with them.

 

On our last day we went back to some of the other places we missed like the The Huc Bridge and ate some of the local fare which were recommended to us. We also went shopping for cheap stuff and suffice it to say we brought home a big haul.

 All in all, Hanoi is as familiar as it can be. It's like meeting someone you've never met in your life yet the experience was just all too familiar you thought you've known this person (or in this case the city) for a long time. I never expected to feel so secure in such a foreign place.

I've heard about its more frenetic cousin, Saigon, but I've never been there so I can't say much about that city. All I know is that Hanoi is one of rare cities I would go back to over and over again.

I just want to thank my friends from Hanoikids: Lê Trung Kiên, Nguyen Quang Thang, Rồng Con and Le Hong Trang for this very unforgettable experience. They were awesome.

My favorite dimsum place in Binondo

 

And it was really love when I first tasted those juicy round dumplings otherwise known as Xiao Long Bao in Binondo. It became sacred ritual for me: You put a dumpling in your soup spoon, Then you bathe it with Chinese vinegar. Pierce a little hole through the soft and delicate wrapper just enough to let out the juices from inside. Close your eyes and slurp the soup that came out. Then you put the dumpling in your mouth and savor everything slowly while you thank God for this wonderful creation.

My friends and I would always make this our lunch stop after rummaging through camera shops in Hidalgo before heading out to Escolta and Manila bay during our photowalks. I learned of this place through Ivan Man Dy's Old Manila Walks and I believe this place gained popularity also through him. Since then people have been going to this restaurant to get a taste of the famed dumplings.

Three years later I've come back to this hole in the wall restaurant to find that nothing much has changed except that it's brighter and cleaner now with a more visible signage outside. Visiting on a Sunday spared me from the waiting time as the place would always be filled with people. There are only 4 table sets inside and one would have to wait in line outside on a regular day.

 

I did not order Xiao Long Bao but instead asked for Kutchay dumplings with pork. The dumplings are prepared in the dining area so you can see them making the dumpling wrappers and filling with them with kutchay and pork mixture. They also sell frozen dumplings if you want them cooked at home.

Each bite would burst into your mouth releasing irresistible flavors you never quite expected from a simple and unassuming little dumpling. Paired with Chinese vinegar and you could not ask for anything more except maybe for a bowl of fried rice. It sent me back to happier days.

 
 Dong Bei Dumpling is located at Yuchengco Street near Binondo Church.

Ra-Dar

 

 This was my last solo adventure before my overall health succumbed to infections and allergies which brought back childhood illnesses I thought I never would experience again... oh well.

For the last 5 years or so our family has been going up to Baguio at least twice a year. My dad used to play golf regularly and as such he bought shares in the local golf club to be able to play for free anytime he wanted to. Along with the perks comes free accommodation which we invariably use and avail of every so often or when we feel compelled to especially when the temperature shoots up.

Safe to say that I consider myself a "regular" and that though I am not a local I have an above average knowledge about the comings and goings in Baguio City. And in the last 5 years I've grown accustomed to visiting all the tourist spots so much so that it has become a routine only that unfortunately my greatest observation is that it is getting crowded. The population is dense and the mountains are being overrun by too many houses.

Anyway to go back to the topic at hand. I came across pictures of a place I've never been to, as always, which gave me the urge to check it out. Because as far as I can remember I never had this feeling since the first time I first read through the local tourism office website. This is how I came to know about Mt. Cabuyao.

The directions were pretty straightforward. Take the jeepney going to Green Valley junction which is stationed at Shagem and Otep streets near Burnharm park. Ask to be dropped off at the junction which is marked by an arch right across a Petron Station. Then from there follow the road going to Mount Santo Tomas. Or as I learned by the time I reached the peak, you can use your car all the way up to the peak as the roads are well-paved. The prominent landmarks are the twin radar discs you would see perched atop the mountain.

I woke up at around 5AM to start early and took a cab from the country club to Burnharm Park. The weather was cold but manageable. I took the jeepney as instructed and started my long walk at the Green Valley junction. The hike is fairly easy as you just have to follow the road which is only gradually sloping. The road is lined with houses and you will never be far away from civilization. The hike up never gets boring nor tiring as the scenic vistas will slow you down especially seeing the mountains covered in thick mist serving as backdrop to the houses you will encounter along the way.

 

As I got higher and higher I saw vegetable plantations carved out from the sides of the mountains. Strawberry season has ended and they were already planting what seemed like Chinese cabbage. On occasion I would see hidden paths by the road which led to these plantations.The trails were muddy at that time as it rained the night before.

By the time I reached the top of the mountain I could already see the twin radar discs. More vegetable plantations were there with a small community tending to them. I was lucky in that the peak was not covered in clouds as I was previously informed that the place gets quickly covered by clouds from time to time.

 

 

 I walked closer to the satellite disks and found out that these were military installations back then during the American period. The site was off limits to visitors but there is a small path leading to a view deck. I was told the road continues up to the Mt. Sto. Tomas which is the highest peak in Baguio; It would take an extra hour to reach the peak. I attempted to continue on to the peak of Mt. Sto. Tomas but I had to go back already because it was already lunch time so I just looked around and took pictures of people there. I eventually hitched a ride with a local all the way back to the Green Valley junction.

 

 

 

By the way, the locals call the place Ra-Dar owing to the two radar discs. I like it.

Padre Burgos, Quezon

It was another planned trip with my photography friends which we do annually. I was looking for places to go and I found these cluster of islands in Padre Burgos through several blogs I read online. The pictures were really inviting and the place was commutable so the date was set and three of us were going.

Padre Burgos is just a 5-hour bus ride from Metro Manila. We took a JAC Liner bus from Cubao at 3AM in the morning and arrived at the Lucena Grand Terminal by 5AM. We transferred to an ordinary open air bus reminiscent of that bus ride a year ago going to Mauban. The sunrise slowly bringing color to the streets of still sleeping towns and revealing coconut trees covering rolling hills in the distance.

The town itself is small. You could literally walk from anywhere and it was sort of a mistake on our part to immediately hire a tricycle upon arrival when we could've explored the town by ourselves. We bought everything we needed for the overnight stay including water, uncooked meat, squid for grilling and several canned goods. All of it cost us P200.00 each which we thought to be really cheap.

After going to the market, we went straight to where the boats were waiting for us. Boat rental costs P1,800.00 for an island hopping tour to Borawan Island, Dampalitan Island, and Puting Buhangin Cove which is the standard rate as published by the local tourism office. The boat ride was smooth as the water is calm and glassy in the morning. It was a nice treat to see groups of small fishes jumping out of the water in various directions as our boat traces its path along the water.

First stop was Borawan Island. Famous for its limestone karsts akin to those seen in Palawan and having white sand like Boracay. Personally, i felt like the place has its own charm and need not be compared to other famous places previously mentioned. I just dismissed it as a marketing gimmick to attract hordes of tourists simply by giving that name recall. We did not stay long in the island because a lot of people were already there. Word has spread out definitely and while I feel happy for the people benefiting from the influx of visitors I wish the place keeps its charm. As for me I am thinking of going back but maybe during the lean season.

 Next stop was Dampalitan Island. It has the longest beach among the three and the most relaxing during that time. A few meters from the beach, agoho trees form a thick cover perfect for pitching tents to avoid the direct heat of the sun. We stayed here until lunch time. Interesting to note that as the day approaches noon the water recedes and exposes the shallower parts of the sea. A small island consisting of a group of rocks is exposed at high noon.

Our last stop was at Puting Buhangin Cove where the famous Kwebang Lampas is located. We were really excited for this part of the trip as the cove receives the most praises based on the blogs I've read. It was indeed beautiful in its own right. However it was crowded the time we went and was poorly managed by the caretakers. Campers where allowed to pitch tents wherever they want to and garbage was everywhere. It was really crowded that time. It got so noisy at night that we had a very hard time sleeping. It would be better to stay at Dampalitan Island during peak season.

 

We explored the cove in the morning when everyone was still sleeping and I imagined how it would have been a better experience with just a few people there keeping everything quiet and peaceful. We found our way through the cave and out through the other opening facing the sea. The best part of the trip was when we swam our way staying close to the side of the cliffs  until we reached a secluded small spot away from the crowds. We spent the rest of the morning there just looking out to the open sea.